Gnocchi a la Parisienne
This week we made a french gnocchi which was made from pate a choux, a versatile dough made by cooking flour and water together until the flour cooks, after which eggs are added. Then gently pouched in water. Here in Dorie's recipe it is served in a bechemel and baked until golden brown.
I have to say when I first saw that we were cooking Gnocchi a la Parisienne I knew right then that I would want to change it up. No offence to Ms. Dorie or her dear friend Paule Caillat, but if I go to the trouble of making gnocchi (whether it be the Italian way with potatoes or the French way with Pate a choux) I want to showcase that ingredient. Unfortunately with Dorie's recipe I felt the gnocchi was lost in the sauce and tasted rather like french mac and cheese.
I far prefer the Thomas Keller version which he serves at his lovely restaurant in Yountville, California http://www.bouchonbistro.com/ In his gnocchi "Dough" he includes numerous herbs, mustard and cheese. Then the gnocchi are sauteed in olive oil until lightly browned. I have seen Mr. Keller saute these with tiny squares of butternut squash along with all sorts of mushrooms. In the restaurant they are changed according to the seasons. There are many different variations that you can do with this dish. Which is what I think cooking is all about.
I think this herbed version lends itself to earthy mushrooms. You could use : Hen in the woods, Thimble Morels, Shitake. I used some wonderful Chantrelles that were foraged in Oregon and some fresh young leeks sauteed in a beurre noisette (Brown butter sauce) and seasoned with some fresh thyme leaves. But you can use any mix of vegetables and seasonings you wish .
A few tips: Make the Gnocchi in advance and freeze. Then it can be pulled straight from the freezer and added right into the saute pan. Season with salt all the way thru the various steps. Use a slight drizzle of white wine vinegar in the sauce. It serves to punch up the flavor a bit. Epicurious.com has a link of Mr. Keller cooking his Parisienne Gnocchi. These were wonderful, tasty little pillows of divine goodness, that I could enjoy weekly... but I might gain a few pounds.
Enjoy!!
So Twin you pull this one out on the one week I kick back and relax? I just couldn't get into this recipe from the moment I read it but had it been written as you suggest I would have perhaps been more enthusiastic. Sure looks good and I do think the freezing suggestion is a good one.
ReplyDeleteTrevor I'm fairly sure that you have Thomas Keller's Bouchon Cookbook. The recipe for this is in there. I've had this with English Peas and it is quite amazing served that way also. Thanks for peeking in on me friend...B:)
ReplyDeleteI haven't decided yet if I want to make this or not, but I like the sound of yours. The mushrooms, especially, would be a wonderful addition. :)
ReplyDeleteI hope you try it. Just maybe do the gnocchi early and freeze it. That makes this dish great for company etc. You get the WOW factor without all that work. I made my gnocchi on a rainy day when I couldn't work in the yard. Enjoy!:B)
ReplyDeleteI'm pretty sure you and I think about food in much the same ways. Thanks for stopping over at my blog and leaving a little love.
ReplyDeleteSince you mentioned Thomas Keller, I thought I'd leave a link to a post I wrote about having met him. I'm trying to cook at least monthly from his AdHoc book ... LOVE that book.
http://tammycirceo.typepad.com/tammy_circeo_musings_on_l/2009/12/meeting-one-of-the-greats.html
After reading your post, I think I would've enjoyed this dish more had I incorporated some of the ideas you discussed. This dish was slightly disappointing for me. Yours turned out great, though!
ReplyDeleteLove your (much lighter) version of this dish! I had to pass because the recipe as written is simply too rich. Now I may just have to look up Keller's recipe.
ReplyDeleteI love your suggestions of adding herbs and mushrooms! So fun to see all the variations from great cooks like you :)
ReplyDeleteI would like to try making this again using your tips. Your gnocchi is so beautiful, Beth!
ReplyDeleteI love the presentation! Mushrooms would have been a great addition to this recipe.
ReplyDeleteThis was definitely a "live and learn" recipe for me...
Like you I changed it up a bit as well.. but making them with the mushrooms is my next step!
ReplyDeleteThanks everyone for coming by. I so enjoy this group and everyone in it. It is always appreciated. Happy cooking to all of you!!B:)
ReplyDeleteOh, Beth! I love what you did with these. I wish I had read this before I made mine.
ReplyDeleteLove your ideas Beth! I'm staring at the recipe debating whether to proceed or not. I'm afraid my husband would accuse me of trying to kill him slowly with butter. The kids would love it, as you noted, it would be a sophisticated macaroni and cheese, but then, I've have to make something else for the husband. Brown butter sauce sounds appealing--but back to the death by butter theme again.
ReplyDeleteWhat a dilemma...
Oh yum. Was thinking of adding something to the dough, but didn't in the end. Should have trusted my instincts! :) Yours looks amazing!
ReplyDeleteBeth, I really have to study Dorie's book a bit more closely - I'd missed this recipe. I love the idea of making gnocchi from choux pastry! On my last visit to the markets I was given half a box of Swiss brown mushrooms - they might work well with the herbed dough. Thanks for the great ideas!
ReplyDeleteI thought that the gnocchi would have been better with some herbs. While good, I thought it was lacking in flavor just a bit.
ReplyDeleteAnn you are too kind. Happy New Year to you and all of you that came by today. Here's to a great year of cooking and getting to know eachother B:)
ReplyDeleteYour gnocchi look great! I agree that these "punched up" gnocchi would be better than the recipe as written.
ReplyDeleteThis was such an amazing recipe. I loved making it and enjoyed reading about your version.
ReplyDeleteI have not made this recipe, but reading your post, I have to agree: adding the herbs and spices, mushrooms and white wine, can only complement the dish.
ReplyDeleteI am looking forward to trying it both ways, as a comparison. But Thomas Keller's version seems more appealing:)
I'm with you Beth, I much prefer my gnocchi to do the talking & not drown it in sauce even though I'm sure the French version was pretty tasty. I love gnocchi with a brown butter sauce & thyme..., its simple & delicate & hits the spot everytime :)
ReplyDeleteAnna I hope all is well with you in the land of OZ. I'm thinking about you guys.B:)
ReplyDeleteWow that looks incredible. And I like that variations are easy to do with this recipe!
ReplyDeleteYour second plate of gnocchi looks delicious!
ReplyDeleteI love your Thomas Keller variations! They sound awesome. I just check his Ad Hoc cookbook out from the library. I think I'm going to have to buy it though. Too many recipes to try in just two weeks.
ReplyDeleteLifeisfull thanks for stopping by. I love canada and am so happy when people pop in from there. My family is from there and it always makes me happy to hear from the north. Betsy, Being from the bay area and having a daughter who works in Napa I am able to taste Thomas Kellers food and it is some of the best I have ever had. His gnocchi is so versatile I hope you try it his way. Thanks for stopping by B:)
ReplyDeleteI like Keller's version. The gnocchi from Dorie was delicious, but the mushrooms and herbs give it so much more character and flavor. Thanks for commenting.
ReplyDeleteI felt sure I left a comment here but it doesn't look like it went through ... weird! I said (or my addled brain thought I said) that while I really did like this version, I agree that a bit of pan fried crisp would be quite welcome.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing your variations. I'm going to take a look at the Keller recipe on Epicurious. Since I froze 2/3 of the batch I made, I should use the opportunity to experiment.
ReplyDeleteLadies Thanks for commenting. Susan you did leave a comment but it was on a differant post..I knew what ya meant tho...See you all on Friday. B:)
ReplyDelete